If you're looking to transition from a perm to natural hair or are just in need of a break from daily care maintenance, wearing a protective hairstyle can be a saving grace for your hair — and your patience. Experts say that the right protective styles can also be beneficial to your hair growth.
What is a protective hairstyle?
Protective hairstyles come in many different forms, including braids, twists, Bantu knots, faux locs, and lace front wigs. "I would define protective hairstyling as a style that protects the shaft and ends of the hair," founder and CEO of Knotty NYC Beauty Tiffany Drysdale Lombardo tells Bazaar.com. "Protective hairstyles should also keep the edges and nape of the neck protected as well. It's the hairstylist's job to ensure that a style is never compromising the health and integrity of their client's hair."
Author and celebrity hairstylist Monaé Everett agrees, adding that along with the ends of your hair, the right protective styles are optimised for the lowest amount of manipulation possible.
What are some benefits of wearing protective styles?
"It's always nice to experiment with different styles without much concern for damaging your natural hair," Everett says. "Low manipulation coupled with minimising breakage from general maintenance like combing and brushing generally increases growth retention." Additionally, if you're usually one to find something you enjoy and stick with it (especially when it comes to beauty), protective hairstyling is an ideal option, as these looks are created to last longer than your average hairstyle. Before choosing a new look to try, Everett says taking proper care of your scalp and natural hair is a must. "A protective style is only protective if your hair is properly cleansed and moisturised," she says. "You want to keep your scalp in optimal condition and always place priority on ensuring your protective hairstyle isn't too tight."
How long should a protective hairstyle typically be worn?
Although it depends on the look, experts say that many protective styles can be worn in your hair for up to a month or more at a time with the right care. "We've worked with clients who request styles like knotless box braids or twists, and they're able to maintain the look for up to four or even five weeks long," Drysdale Lombardo says. "If those looks were done solely with their own natural hair without extensions added, the lifespan of the style would be significantly less." In addition to using hair oil and leave-in conditioner, experts recommend sleeping in a satin scarf or bonnet at night to avoid flyaways, retain moisture, and keep hair intact. As a back-up to your bonnet or scarf, a silk or satin pillowcase can also come in handy to protect your hair while you sleep.
What are some red flags to look out for when having a style professionally installed?
"I think it's important for customers to do as much research as possible on their stylist and salon of choice to make sure they're putting the health of their clients' hair first," Drysdale Lombardo adds. "I also suggest looking at pictures of a stylist's past work to make sure their customers' edges aren't pulled tightly in braided or twisted styles." Further telling signs that a protective style is causing more harm than good include immense headaches and small bumps along the hairline, which can often be a sign of over-pulling.
For beauty inspiration worth referencing at your next hair appointment, we've pulled together some of the most in-demand protective hairstyles to wear this season and all year round.
Box braids
Whether large or micro, box braids are a frequent go-to for many beauty lovers. When styled with Kanekalon—a lightweight synthetic braiding hair used to extend length and thickness—these styles are easily recognised, as they're typically wrapped and appear more bulbous at their base.
Cornrows
Another protective hairstyling staple, cornrows are braided closely to the scalp beginning at the hairline and continuing to the nape of the neck. While cornrows can be styled with a straight-back appearance, some braids, like these featured on singer Brandy, are designed off-centre or at an angle.
Knotless braids
A derivative of classic box braids, knotless braids are created straight from the root and also flow freely, which allows for a number of styling options. Here, actress Zendaya models smaller-sized braids with a series of precise square parts.
Fulani braids
Inspired by the Fulani people of Africa, this protective style includes braided edges and a distinctive, straight-back centre braid that's close to the scalp, with a number of non-parallel sections braided on either side of it. Unlike traditional cornrows, these braids are attached only to the top of the head and are free-flowing near the crown. Fulani braids are also sometimes adorned with beads to enhance their beauty.
Passion twists
Passion twists were created by Miami hairstylist Kailyn Rogers in 2018 and have become increasingly more popular thanks to fans like Fresh Lengths beauty influencer Lesley (as well as this writer). The twists get their curly texture from the addition of FreeTress Water Wave extensions that add to their overall bounce.
Senegalese twists
While these twists may seem similar to the passion style, Senegalese twists—named after the country in Africa—are designed with a rope-like appearance that usually looks fluffier and thicker than its curlier twist counterpart.
Halo braids
Halo braids don't just look angelic, they've earned the name from their circular, halo-like positioning that's weaved closely around the head. For added volume, you can choose to braid in a few extensions with your natural hair.
Faux locs
If you've been curious about how your hair would look in locs and are looking for an alternative to braids and twists, consider testing these out. The style involves braiding the natural hair, then wrapping extensions around each braid to create the appearance of locs, like Megan Thee Stallion.
Three-strand faux ponytail
Here's a simple, two-part style that starts with brushing your hair into a sleek updo and ends with braiding extensions onto your own ponytail for extra length and structure. "I would go to YouTube University because there are so many fun tutorials out there on how to do a style like this at home," Drysdale Lombardo advises.
Lace front wigs
Whether you decide to wear a lace front wig with bold colour, like beauty influencer and CEO Jackie Aina, or opt for something subtler, professionals say this style must be installed properly for wearers to reap its full protective benefits. "When a lace front wig is properly applied, it's considered a protective style. Proper application includes braiding down natural hair and applying a stocking cap around the entire hairline to protect it," Everett explains. Though lace fronts can serve as an effective protective hairstyle, don't count on keeping your natural hair tucked away for too long. "This is not a long-lasting protective hairstyle, as lace front wigs are only recommended for up to two weeks," she advises.
Bantu knots
Another protective look that can be done with or without help from a professional, a set of Bantu knots provides a timeless style that can later transition to a bouncy twist-out. Bantu knots are created by sectioning the hair and wrapping it around itself to form a number of small uniform buns around the head.
Shop These Expert-Approved Items for Protective Hairstyles
